Went to the fish market last night and it was awesome. You just point at the fish you want and they bbq it for you right away. Pretty cheap too =) We then went to the only bar in the place that sells beer in a pint glass and on to this weird local night club with a great live band. It seems you can have a night out in essaouira after all.
For anyone that stumbles on this on the internet I thought I would give some advice on the best place to go kitesurfing near essaouira. Take the number 2 bus from outside the medina – it only costs 6 dihrim – to the end which is sidi kaouki. There is a great food and drink place just down the road from the bus stop. You should launch from there (you can blag a locker from the windsurf place) and then ride downwind to where the beach curves out. It is about 2km down. The water there is nice and flat between the clean waves and the wind is much less gusty although still very strong. The upwind ride is perfectly doable in about 20 mins.
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